| INSTANT WEEKEND: LISBON |
06/05/2009
It's Chic, Cultured, Mouthwatering and Scandalously Cheap. |
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Written by Katie Bowman (Reprinted from The Sunday Times, 3 May 2009)
Is there a stylish city left in Europe that you can afford? Yes. While Berlin, Amsterdam and Barcelona were becoming flash and fearsomely expensive, Lisbon remained defiantly low-cost and low-key. It’s one of the least expensive capitals in the EU — the cost of living is half that in London— and it’s one of the most exciting, too. Here’s why.
IT’S STYLISH
Lisbon may not be fashionable in the asymmetric-haircut sense of the word, but it is chic. Start on Saturday morning at Feira da Ladra flea market (Campo de Santa Clara, Alfama, Tue and Sat), where old ladies peddle vintage luggage, fur stoles, kitsch coffee pots and costume jewelry for pennies.
Then take the tram to Belem for a custard tart at Antiga Confeitaria de Belem. Its 1837 recipe for “pasteis de belem” is so secret, even the pastry chefs don’t know what goes in the custard.
Eat them at the antique mirror-top bar with a bica (espresso); it’s £2.50 for a tart and coffee. Or have them boxed up and walk to the Ajuda Botanical Gardens, where lovers hold hands in the giant, steamy glasshouses.
Belem is also where you’ll find the Berardo Collection (Praca do Imperio; 00 351-21 361 2878, museuberardo.com; free), one of the world’s most intimidating personal art stashes — Hockney, Warhol, Rego, Bacon and Pollock are all represented here.
Night-time brings fado, the soap-operatic songs from Portugal’s past. The sound is a little Arabic, a little Latino, a little happy, a lot sad: you can hear it sung in Clube de Fado (Rua S Jao de Praca 94), but insiders go to A Tasca do Chico (Rua do Diario de Noticias), a tiny bar in Bairro Alto. There’s no cover charge, and the soundproofing comprises hundreds of Benfica football scarves pinned to the ceiling.
IT’S SUNNY
I went in early March to find a T-shirted city and people eating lunch outside in 22C. Enjoy the sunshine on the ferry from central Lisbon (Cais do Sodre) to Cacilhas, on the south bank of the Tagus (£1.50 return; every 20 minutes).
From here, take the 101 bus to Cristo Rei — Lisbon’s 360ft statue of Christ, every bit as striking as Rio’s, but a lot easier to get to. From up here, Lisbon makes you gasp: the civic buildings in Baixa are painted immodestly in clover yellow and airmail blue; Moorish Alfama tumbles prettily down the hill, its washing drying in the sun; and the dome of Santa Engracia gives the whole city a stately finesse.
Pictures taken, head back to the port for lunch. To your right is a riverfront path past graffitied wharves and warehouses — you’ll think you’ve taken the wrong turn until, out of nowhere, appears Atira-Te Ao Rio, a waterfront restaurant with Lisbon’s best view. Grilled fish for two and a carafe of white will set you back £25. The sunshine is free.
THE FOOD’S GREAT
...and good value, too. The city hasn’t been ravaged by tourists, so restaurateurs don’t feel the need to ramp up their prices.
For the best breakfast, have pastries on the go — two of the loveliest cafes are Confeitaria Nacional, in Baixa (Praca da Figueira), and A Brasileira, in Chiado (Rua Garrett 120). A cheap but chic lunch can be had at Cafe no Chiado (Rua do Picadeiro 10) — order the chilled Alentejo soup, made with bread, egg and garlic.
Dine at Olivier Cafe (Rua do Alecrim 23; www.restaurante-olivier.com; mains from £17) for smart modern food in generous portions: try the seven-course starter with goat’s cheese puffs, cod sashimi and veal wrapped in tuna.
Or there’s Cervejaria Trindade (Rua Nova da Trindade; 21 342 3506, cervejariatrindade.pt), a former monastery with a fish-focused menu and a £6 dish of the day.
THE HOTELS ARE A SNIP
Romantic, stylish York House (21 396 2435, yorkhouselisboa.com; doubles from £53) is an ex-convent that still has the original doors (with grilled peephole) and warped tiled floors trodden smooth by nuns.
Or try the Med-chic Solar do Castelo, a glass and stone annexe built into the walls of the castle (Rua das Cozinhas 2; 21 321 8200, www.heritage.pt; doubles from £129).
The hostels are cool, too. Living Lounge (21 346 1078, lisbonloungehostel.com; dorm beds from £16, twins from £44) was rated Europe’s best last year, and you can see why: stainless-steel kitchen, trendy lounge showing off a retro barber’s chair and vintage chaises longues.
Getting there: fly to Lisbon with British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com), TAP Air Portugal (0845 601 0932, www.flytap.com ) or EasyJet (easyjet.co.uk).
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